You have been warned – after you visit the Black Forest in
Germany, you will want all your holiday spots to be like that. I am telling you
from experience – I went there 6 months back (September 2015) and I am looking to go someplace
similar for my next vacation; I just can’t get over it!
I don’t remember what was it that made us want to go to the
Black Forest. We had no friends who have been there, and absolutely no idea of
the region. However, we had a fair idea of the type of places we like –
picturesque small towns where you can walk and walk and take in the culture.
Black Forest suited the description perfectly.
I took a lot of time deciding where should we base
ourselves. Forums online advised against staying in bigger towns. But we needed
a city with good connections to Amsterdam and Wurzberg (our entry and exit
points). We needed a town where we would get good dinners ‘cause after a day in
the villages we would be starving and we like to have more options. So it was down to 3 cities – Baden Baden,
Offenberg and Freiburg im Breisgau (Frei in the following paragraphs!).
It was easy to choose Frei because it had a direct flight
from Amsterdam. Euro Airport serves Basel-Mullhouse-Freiburg im Breisgau for
three different countries. Frei is also a university town, that made our choice
simpler.
Our hotel was very close to the train station. Since we had
to take a number of day trips, it was ideal. Frei has an amazing network of
trams, buses and rail. Our hotel gave us a card that made our transport free
within a certain region.
We even bought a 3-day Black Forest pass which was extremely cheap
considering the amount of time we spent on buses and trains. Germany is the
cheapest destination in terms of public transport. And the most efficient as
well. I don't take Switzerland into account - that country leaves you with a hole in your pocket!
It was raining on our arrival day and so we decided to go to
a near-by lake called Titisee. Travel days are exhausting and so we just
wandered around aimlessly. The lake was beautiful and so was the area. We had minced
pork and potatoes for lunch – that was a grand welcome to Germany! Needless to
say, I just hogged on the potatoes!
The next day it was raining again. We wanted to take a cable
car ride but it wasn’t the right day. So we decided to go to Triberg. It is a
small village with the largest cuckoo clock. The whole village had small shops
with clocks all around. It was like a fairy land! We went to a waterfall and
got drenched with our ponchos on. Rain bothered us quite a bit but we had no
choice.
We had a funny experience thereafter! There was a bus
standing waiting to go in our towns direction. I thought it would be fun to
visit smaller towns and go through meandering roads. We hopped on to that bus. The
driver told us it would take 2 hours by bus while it would just take an hour by
train. We thought this would be a different experience and so we waited for the
bus to move.
The bus went through all the Black Forest towns it seems! The
driver picked children from one village and dropped them in another. We quickly
realised it was school time and this was a bus for the kids!
Nevertheless, we witnessed a fun aspect and had a great time
being on the roads! We reached Offenberg and took our train to Frei. In the
evening we thought of going to an Indian restaurant and found an amazing one with
ease.
Getting lost and doing random things makes vacations so much
fun. Although I hate the scary parts, and GPS sometimes takes us through
frightening, deserted routes. Anyway, you learn along the way so it’s not that
big a deal.
On day 3 in Frei we took a tram across the city. We saw
beyond touristy spots and observed how the city operated. We then took a cable
car to Schauinsland and I found my peace in the hills.
It was a clear day with only light drizzle here and there. We
trekked a little on the hills and found some beautiful spots to rest in. I wish
I could trek more and get lost in those mountains. But I am grateful for the
ability to atleast walk and see some of it. Schauinsland was a very simple
place, yet it had the most calming air to it. I could go there every day if I lived
anywhere near it. Ah the joy!
We did our laundry in the evening since we were half way
through our vacation and were running out of clothes. We ate at the Indian
restaurant again since our clothes had to be washed and dried before we could
leave the area. The laundromat was obviously in German. But with the help
of some kind people, we managed well. Also, my opinion of Germans being a rude
community changed after the trip since we didn’t have a single harsh encounter!
We went to small villages the next day – Schiltach and
Gengenbach. All these places looked quite similar to each other. Yet they were
beautiful and had a typical Black Forest charm. We ate the famous Black Forest
cake in supposedly the village which is most famous for it – Schiltach. It was definitely over-rated! The locally brewed beer, however, was quite yum!
Our evening was spent in exploring Freiburg. Another funny
incident happened which will forever be etched in my memory. It has to do with
hot coffee and what sometimes happens next. Eww!
For some reason I had over-looked Baden-Baden. Most people
on travel forums are fans of local things. They like what is authentic and
traditional and talk against modern yet beautiful places. We just looked at
google images of Baden-Baden the previous evening and thought we would like it.
We couldn’t have been more right. This town in the North
of the Black Forest is a modern fairy land. It has cute cafes looking
absolutely chic. It has pretty streets leading to plush hotels and restaurants.
And the best of all, it has a cable car leading to a hill with amazing views of
the area. You know how much I love tiny hills with small trekking areas!
We wished we had stayed the night in the city. But since we
had a bus to Wurzberg the next day and we hadn’t planned this before, we went
against it.
Nevertheless, each and every day in the Black Forest was
amazing. I wish I could go there again sometime. But before that, I have many miles to cover, and cover I shall!
Tips for the area:
- If you are without a car, you would be doing a
lot of train travel. We had to take a lot of connections at Offenberg. If you
like the town, you can base yourself there.
- 5 days would do justice to the area.
- Small towns are what they are – small. You walk
around a bit and they end. So be careful while choosing them as a base.
- Buy rail passes and use them. It cannot get more
cheap.
- Black Forest is the cheapest European destination
we have been to. It has the charm of the Swiss hills and the cuteness of
Austria. Get the best of all worlds and save your money!
- Eat the sandwich with Mango Curry sauce at the Frei station. If you like it, bring back some mango curry sauce from Germany. It was our one and only purchase and ...slurppp!
- If you want to explore more THIS blog is quite comprehensive.
Coming up - Trip reports from Amsterdam, Munich and Cyprus! They are long over-due!